As an experienced seamstress and dressmaker, I have learned to alter any commercial pattern as well as self drafted patterns using the method below. Have a friend help you take your measurements, as described below. Armed with measurements it usually takes less than a half an hour to complete the process!
Happy Sewing!
Have someone help you take the following measurements:
Bust.... Around the chest, across the bust points, parallel to the floor.
Natural waist.... Measure around the waist parallel to the floor.
Hip circumference ....Around the hip at its fullest point. If the circumference around the thighs is larger than around the hip, then use the larger measurement Back shoulder width....
From shoulder point to shoulder point across the back of the body, this typically will be approx 2”-5” longer than the front shoulder width. Front shoulder width....
From shoulder point to shoulder point across the front of the body, This typically should be approx 2”-5” smaller than the back shoulder width.
Center front length....Waistline should be marked parallel to the floor. Measure from the base of the neck at the “wishbone” to the waist. Typically this measurement should be 1.5” shorter than the center back length.
Center back length....Waistline should be marked parallel to the floor. Measure from the protruding bone at the back of the neck, to the waistline. Typically this measurement should be approx 1.5” longer than the center front length.
Shoulder length....From the base of the neck at the center of the neck (side view) to the shoulder point. Average shoulder length is 5” + or - .25”.
If there is a specific measurement change that you make regularly, and it is not in the above list, be sure to add it in as well.
Most of the alterations will be done to the bodice front and back pieces, or skirt front and back pieces. Adjustments may be required to some of the other minor pieces, such as a lapel facing, or collar, which would probably be in length only. Remember to measure the pattern piece from stitching line to stitching line, do not include seam allowances. If your pattern does not have seam allowances, it will make the process easier, and you can add the seam allowance before cutting. However if your pattern includes seam allowances that are not marked, its best to draw them in 5/8” from the solid outer lines of the pattern.
Starting at the shoulder area, working your way down, begin comparing your measurements to the pattern piece. For instance, if your back shoulder width is 14” divide that by two (because the back pattern piece is only half the finished garment) = 7”, if your pattern piece measures 6” , then you need to add 1” . Measure ½” from the stitching line and mark it. We add only half the required amount to the pattern piece, because we are working with only half the finished garment in pattern form.
Move to the bust measurement and compare in the same manner. Next the waist, and then hip area. When comparing waist and hip measurements you will divide these measurements by 4 instead of 2. For instance, if your waist measurement is 34” and your front and back pattern pieces measure a total of 32”, you will need to add two inches to the waist to make it fit. We want to add this two inches evenly around the garment by dividing it by four and adding, in this case, ½” to each of the side seams of the front and the back pieces.
Redraft the lines of the pattern corresponding to the adjustment marks you just made at the shoulder, bust, waist and hip lines, in the same shape as the original pattern piece. Next check your center back/center front length to make sure the waistline of the garment will be in the right place.
There’s nothing worse than sewing up a sheath or a jacket and finding your waistline isn’t where your waist is. If you have excess fabric creating wrinkles and puckers between the neckline and waist , your waistline is too long. Meaning the curvy part of the waist, (which is usually the narrowest part of a fitted or tailored garment, thereby hugging the waist,) is sitting at your high hip or hip line instead of the waist. To make the adjustment on your pattern, compare your center back and/or center front lengths to the pattern pieces and fold out any excess.
Of course it is highly recommended that you sew a muslin, once your pattern adjustments are complete. With your muslin you will be able to fine tune the fit, and check for proper placement of darts, prior to cutting your precious fashion fabric.
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