Monday, February 27, 2012

A little bit about Paloma Picasso

In her own words in an interview with Style Studio, Paloma Picasso says that from a very early age she was "very interested in jewelry." She would often ask her mother if she could go through her jewelry and try things on, "admiring how the pieces looked."

Paloma, meaning Dove in Spanish, is the daughter of famous painter Pablo Picasso and as a child was very quiet, which she says, "enabled me to spend many hours with my father. I would sit next to him while he painted and do my own designs." When she was young both her parents advised her that "I need to be my own judge about whether my drawings and designs we good or not."

In 1968 when she was working as a costume designer and living in Paris she loved shopping at flea markets to find materials for her own jewelry designs. It was that same year that some rhinestone necklaces she made from bits and pieces from those same flea markets drew some high praise from design critics. She immediately enrolled in a jewelry course.

Soon after, Yves Saint Laurent asked her to design accessories to accompany one of his collections. Paloma was officially on her way and by 1971 she was workign for the highly prestigious Greek jewelry company Zolotas. Then, in 1980 she began designing for Tiffany and Co., debuting in signature "X's" and scribbles in gold and sterling silver. Some jewelry experts say that her signature "X" pieces, "graffiti" brooches and scrawled heart shaped pendants are as recognizable as Tiffany and Co.'s diamond solitaire settings.

"I always go for the big, bold centrist look. I still do", says Paloma in an interview for Tiffany and Co. "and" She says she's "so glad that yellow gold is back" as it is one of her favorite materials to not only work with but "wear as well."

Paloma is still designing for Tiffany and Co. and has recently expanded her line into men's jewelry. Paloma Picasso has no plans of retiring anytime soon. Good news for jewelry lovers

I will recommend the following of my store offerings for these species/class of fish

Walleye:
Round Head Jigs from 1/8 oz. - 1/2 oz. For general purpose jigging.

Football Head Jigs from 1/4 oz. - 3/4oz. on ROCKY Bottoms.

Stand Up Jigs from 1/8 oz. - 3/4 oz. on any bottom type. These keep your bait IN THE STRIKE ZONE while still resting on the bottom. These also offer a very flat base on the bottom to make for a SLOW-FALL presentation.

Tip-Up Jigs (With OR Without Screwlocks) from 3/16 oz. - 7/16 oz. on any bottom type. These jigs will STAND UP from any position due to the design of the head. These are best used with plastic worms to keep them IN THE STRIKE ZONE while still providing a SELF RIGHTING DESIGN. The screw lock will be threaded into the plastic worm and allow the jig to be rigged weedless if needed.

Teardrop Jig from : 1/16 oz. - 5/8 oz. These are just as VERSATILE as the Round head jigs. They offer a little different profile which most retailers do NOT OFFER. This could be the jig which makes the difference between an average day and an EXCELLENT day fishing. These also work great for ice fishing in the 1/16 oz. - 1/4 oz. sizes.

Live Bait Jig from 1/16 oz. - 1/2 oz. The live bait jig is designed to hold that minnow right by the lip. It offers a short shank hook which will increase your hook up percentages while keeping that minnow right where you want it.

Pencil Sinkers also help to allow for a deep troll using them inline or on a 3-way swivel system. These are an EXCELLENT sinker with planar boards as well.

Bass:

Snootie Jig from 3/8 oz. - 5/8 oz. These are best used for punching through that heavy cover bass always seem to find. They offer a low snag style head with excellent hookups due to the softer stiffness brush guard. These can be casted, pitched, flipped, or skipped for a very VERSATILE weedless bass jig.

Football Jig from 1/4 oz. - 3/4 oz. These are the most SNAG-FREE thing to use when fishing those rocky banks. I offer them in weedless or not but prefer the weedless design.

Crappie, Sunfish, Bream, and other Panfish:

Round head jig from: 1/32 oz. - 1/4 oz. These can be used in MANY different rigging styles and are a VERY VERSATILE system for ALL of these species. I prefer the 1/32 oz. or the 1/8 oz. when targeting crappies.

Teardrop Jig from : 1/16 oz. - 1/4 oz. These are just as VERSATILE as the Round head jigs. They offer a little different profile which most retailers do NOT OFFER. This could be the jig which makes the difference between an average day and an EXCELLENT day fishing. These also work great for ice fishing in the 1/16 oz. size.

Live Bait Jig from 1/16 oz. - 1/4 oz. The live bait jig is designed to hold that minnow right by the lip. It offers a short shank hook which will increase your hook up percentages while keeping that minnow right where you want it.

Catfish:

Bank Sinkers from 2 oz. - 5 oz. These are awesome when needed for HIGH CURRENT areas. These are some of the best sinkers to use.

No-Roll Sinkers from 1 oz. - 3 oz. This style sinker will offer that NO-ROLL desired in high current areas. It will hit the bottom and STAY THERE while your line running through the sinker will be freee to work in the current if a different depth is desired.

Surf/Saltwater:

Bank Sinkers from 2 oz. - 5 oz. Can be used for MANY different things including practice casting and holding that bait near the bottom when that surf starts to roll.

I will be updating this guide as my sales options increase. Also, I will answer ANY QUESTIONS if you contact me when needed.

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Monday, February 20, 2012

BENCH BLOCKS Guide

Bench blocks or Flat Anvils are one of the most common tools found in any work bench. They encompass a broad family of tools. Some are specially manufactured to perform specific functions for certain trades while most are intended for general bench work. This humble tool rarely has any moving parts and it often can't be used by itself but almost invariably in conjunction with other tools. Including a hammer, stump, stake, punch, pliers, tweezers, picks, etc. Flat Anvils differ from "Horn Anvils" in that the latter have pointed "horns" and bench blocks generally have more flat surface.

In this guide we cover just a very narrow subset of small precision flat anvils. The main function of these bench blocks is to act as a base for common operations, including:

a) Flattening and shaping

b) Support for laying out small designs

c) Riveting

d) Staking

e) Drilling and much more...


This is one of the most useful bench blocks patterns available, the No. 1086A. It was made of hardened steel by the Kendrick and Davis Co. with machine ground top and bottom. It has 4 milled slots, 9 graduated holes with the largest hole sized for K and D staking tool stumps as shown in the picture. It features a "V" slot for removing watch pinions. This one has a mirror polished top face with a tiny hole on the upper left portion to prevent small pivots from slipping over the bright surface.

While a simple bench block could be made with a small piece of flat steel, some of them are made of different metals, they have graduated holes, etc. to increase their suitability for many operations. Different combinations of these features has given rise to multiple designs. Few tool patterns created many years ago have proven particularly effective and are still popular today. A tool pattern developed for one trade often find use by another, so it is not uncommon to find a jeweler's block on an optician's bench and a watchmaker's block on a luthier's bench. Adequately covering the versatility of this tool exceeds the space available in these guides. Some of the relevant characteristics include:


Most of the steel bench blocks are case-hardened and ground flat on at least one face. High end blocks are often made with special steel alloys, tempered to correct hardness and ground on all sides perfectly parallel.

The precision flat anvils typically have carefully graduated holes useful for staking, drilling and punching. Some are reversible with different hole sizes on each side. One hole is generally sized for holding stumps commonly used in staking tool sets. Using a bench block for common staking operations saves the more costly die in the staking tool.

They also can have milled slots and a special "V" slot for removing watch rollers, pinions and similar items. Milled slots are useful for laying out small pieces with salient parts.


MODELS

There are diverse models of bench blocks to cover many common and some special operations. Due to limitations in the number of pictures available to be posted in eBay Guides, we are listing below some common and few seldomly seen models that can still show up in the marketplace and collections.


This is a type of flat anvil called the "Universal Anvil" for its extremely versatile design. It has been manufactured by Bergeon and others. This cube shaped block is popular across multiple trades, and particularly sought out by watchmakers and jewelers. It has 16 bigger holes on the sides, all different. It also has high precision "V" and "U" shaped grooves, as well as flat grooves on the sides, and notches on the corners to bend wire. The top flat piece with staking holes is held by a screw and it can be changed if the holes ever wear out. Beautifully blued to protect it against rust all over except the top face .

This is the classic hexagonal No. 1085A block manufactured by Kendrick and Davis, also by Hammel and Riglander Co. (HR) as well as others. Easy to grab by hand or in the bench vise. Hardened steel and tempered for the right hardness. This model is reversible with different size holes on both sides, 36 graduated holes in total. One hole is sized to hold a stump as shown. It has 5 milled slots for holding and staking small parts. This is a high precision block with all faces ground.

this is one of the smallest profile blocks with the highest concentration of features. Generally found as being French manufactured in high quality hardened steel alloy tempered for right hardness. It has 20 graduated holes, 5 milled slots at the ends, one key slot and one rectangular slot in the center. Designed to be held in the bench vise. The milled slots at the ends are not only graduated but they are also very thin at the ends and they can function as a "V" slot to help removing rollers and pinions.

The "Roller Block" is a top of the line bench block. A precision tool manufactured by the M-B Tool Mfg. Co., Inc. It is made with one of the best quality steel alloys available, precision machined and ground. The entire tool is case-hardened and tempered for correct hardness. The sides and inside of the holes are blackened to minimize rust. This is a highly specialized bench block for watchmakers. It has 12 graduating holes with one hole sized to hold standard staking tool stumps. It has 7 ganged milled slots so arranged for overlapping grip on pieces with salient parts. It has a specially machined "V" slot for removing pinions, however the most prominent feature is the knife edge "V" slot for removing roller tables. It is longer, thinner and gives a larger working area than comparable models. The inserts are case-hardened, removable for sharpening and replaceable. Four set screws hold the inserts in place. The tool comes with the tiny Allen wrench for the screws and two blackened punches, one small flat face punch and one roller remover punch with cleaning holes. The punches fit in the stump sized hole for added versatility.

This is a group of traditional staking blocks that can be held in a bench vise. The unusually bigger block on the left has 31 graduated holes. It is made of hardened tempered steel. The central block is made of brass with 36 holes; preferred by many because it will not mar soft metals. The one on the right is a nickelled steel block with 24 graduated holes, sought out because of its durability.

This is a specialty bench block for watchmakers that can be held in a bench vise for flattening watch escapement wheels as shown in the biggest size ring. It is made of ZAMAK, an alloy of Zinc, aluminum, magnesium and copper. It is very useful as well for working on small pieces that may have salient parts. It has been manufactured by Bergeon and others in different variations of the same tool pattern.

This is a high quality round double metal bench block mainly for staking. The inner ring is made of hardened tempered steel with 13 graduated holes. The central hole is sized for taking stumps as shown. The outter brass ring has 12 graduated holes that will protect soft metals.
This is not properly a "flat anvil" though it deserves a place as a model of bench block. This is an old ring forming block made of cast steel with 4 graduated rounded concave depressions designed to form soft wire into different curved shapes.

CHALLENGES

Some of the newer tools are of high quality and they are made with good manufacturing standards as the old ones, though they fetch a higher price as well. Many imports are not made with high quality steel or brass alloys and are neither hardened nor tempered for correct hardness. These characteristics could be difficult to detect when buying online and the result is not only lower durability but also the possibility of damaging the parts that you are trying to fix or assemble. A good quality bench block carefully used can last for generations for craftsmen. In spite of many years of service, some of the old blocks would still be able to perform reasonably well over an even longer period. However some may show some signs of wear, neglect or breakage. The following pictures show some of the most common challenges found in this type of tools:


The picture on the left shows a block with a chipped corner. This missing piece does not affect the functionality of the tool and it is not an issue but rather a cosmetic blemish. However, if the missing pieces were bigger and getting into a hole, then it may take away part of the functionality of the tool and it must be factored into the consideration of the tool's practical value. This problem commonly may ocur when a block falls on a hard surface or it is hammered hard. If surface cracks appear, they tend not to be an issue unless they go all the way through the block in which case the block has an increased liability of breaking and becoming a potential safty hazard. That type of problem may prove hard to fix. Sometimes, hard soldering the crack, re-tempering and surface grinding the block could fix the problem though it might be easier to just replace the block.

The rightmost view shows a round mark around the biggest hole. This is a very common situation mostly due to normal wear. In most cases, it does not impact the functionality of the tool for every day work. All bench blocks may eventually develop wear patterns due to tool marks around the holes, as well as dents, scratches, etc. For more exacting work on finer pieces the working face must be in top shape. Bench blocks are extra thick so their working faces can be re-surfaced. This is normal maintenance and most local machine shops with a surface grinder could do the job. A good quality bench block can be re-surfaced many times over its useful life. A particular consideration is required for those blocks that have nickelled or cemented surfaces. The chemical process to cement the block generally penetrates only through a very thin layer on its surface. The re-surfacing may shave off part or all of that thin cemented layer. If that is the case, the block could be re-cemented or case-hardened at a local gunsmith shop with a carbon nitriding furnace.

Jewelry Durability for Crafters

1) Use the strongest and most durable materials you can.

- While slim wire or cord is often less expensive, it also breaks more readily. Keep a supply of heavier stringing materials on hand for those 'chunky' or heavy pieces.

- Dainty clasps should be used on dainty pieces -- for heavier pieces, make sure your clasps and findings are able to stand up to the needs of your design.


2) Consider the weight of your beads and spacers before choosing how to string them.

- Elastic cord is sufficient for lightweight pieces, but when working with heavier beads, it's often overloaded with the sheer weight of the beads, and regular wear will inevitably lead to a broken cord. Large glass or stone beads often are far too heavy for elastic cord. If you must put them on elastic, try doubling up! (See below)

- If you want something that is durable but doesn't need a catch, memory wire is a good alternative -- just add end caps or crimp beads to the end to finish the piece, and it will have all the simplicity of a stretchy bracelet with all the durability of a wired bracelet.

- Spacer beads often weigh less than the heavier beads used -- a pattern of pretty spacer beads worked into your design will make the whole thing a touch lighter.

- Another trick for spacing: seed beads! A short sequence of pretty seed beads can contrast or match your color scheme however you like, and can also lighten the weight of the final piece.


3) Twice is nice - double up on wire if it'll fit!

- You can double-thread stringing wire or cord if it will fit through the bead's holes. You can do this with a single piece of wire double the length of your piece -- for a 7.5" final length bracelet, 15" of stringing material will allow you to double up and bolster your designs' durability. Allow for the amount of wire needed for crimping as always, of course.

- If you are working with very large-hole beads, consider using slender braided cord rather than strands. A simple braiding wheel (also called a Kumihimo disk) can make braiding very slim cord simple and elegant, and it will be far more durable than just a doubled strand.


4) Check all connections on a piece to see how they withstand wear.

- It's simple enough to give a gentle tug on either end -- and I do mean gentle -- to see how the links, connectors, and clasps hold up.

- Check all your jump rings and eye pins to make sure loops are flat and closed.

- Don't bend wire or rings on components more than you need to; excessive bending and unbending can weaken the metal and make them more likely to break.


5) Give your customers advice on jewelry care.

If a customer knows the best ways to care for a piece, that customer will be more satisfied, in the end, with your creations. Consider things like this when writing up a 'care instructions' sheet:

- Metal care

What materials are included in your metal pieces, and what sort of care is best for them? If you're working in sterling silver, that's particularly prone to tarnishing, and needs polish more often than gold or other jewelry metals. Tarnish happens. It can be avoided, however. In most hobby stores, there are products made to 'seal' jewelry, including painted and embellished beads and precious-metal-plate components; using those on the metal and delicate beads of a piece can increase their lifespans.

- Care of beads

Every sort of bead has its own best methods for care. Some examples: Pearls need special care, as do soft materials like amber. Paper beads should not be exposed to water. Beads with painted surfaces can be damaged by contact. Glass beads can be scratched in the same way. The color coatings on crystals can rub off very easily if worn frequently.

- In all cases, a jewelry polishing cloth is a nice way to keep things pretty without risking damaging one part to clean another.

- Delicate pieces should be worn with more care. The more often someone intends to wear a piece, the more durable it should be. Daily-wear bracelets should be made with that level of contact with the outside world in mind. While I personally don't use acrylic or plastic beads, those are more durable for daily wear than crystals or glass. Pretty wood beads are a wonderful choice for daily wear, since a bit of weathering only makes them more distinctive.

- More delicate bracelets should be worn on the off-hand's wrist for protection. In other words, if you're right-handed, wear delicate pieces on your left wrist (your off-hand). Your dominant hand will be used more often, and come in contact with more potential problems for your jewelry than your off hand.

- Jewelry should be stored on soft cloth or cotton, or something equally gentle. If it includes painted or dyed beads, it should be kept in a dark place to avoid uneven fading.